Sunday, March 21, 2021

The Covid-19 Pandemic is still with us. But we've had our vaccinations and we haven't been anywhere since last October.  So, here we go again to one of our favorite places, Death Valley National Park. We'll go down via Elko across the Nevada Dessert. We'll stay four nights at The Ranch and return home next Saturday. Easy to maintain social distancing here!

Our day started with a fabulous brunch at The Orchard House in Marsing. We've had lunch there several times, but never breakfast. Popular spot on a Sunday morning! 

Then down through Murphy, Grandview, Owyhee, up the Owyhee River canyons to Wild Horse Reservoir. Lots of ice fishing! We're at 6200 feet elevation so its cold and snowy on the mountains. Very pretty!

We stayed at the usual Comfort Inn in Elko and had a nice dinner at the Stockman, as usual. Are we dull and boring? Watching NCAA basketball after dinner.

400 miles to DVNP tomorrow.

Monday March 22, 2021 Elko to Death Valley

 413 Miles today. We left Elko around 9:00, weather is cold and cloudy. We took I-80 down to Battle Mountain then headed south on Rt 305 to Austin. The weather deteriorated to snow showers and temp in the 28-32 range. Once we got over Austin Summit (7500') the weather began to clear. By the time we got down to Tonopah on Rt 376 it was in the 50s.

After a gas and ice cream stop in Beatty ( it was now in the 60s) we headed down into DVNP. Interesting that from "Daylight Pass" you drop almost 4000 feet over the next ten miles to the valley floor at -170. At the bottom, the temperature was 79!

An interesting thing we saw today was wild mules! Apparently they are proliferating and becoming quite the pest!

We checked into the hotel (room 910) and unload our stuff. After wine and cheese on the patio, we went over to the Last Chance Saloon and Steak House. The dining options are very limited, due to Covid. Everything is take out, so we had Chili and Crab Cakes. The park seems much more "locked down" that it was when we were here last October. Nevertheless, it seems quite busy!

Not sure what tomorrow will bring. The weather forecast is for a major wind storm!

Rest stop at Carvers

Wild Mules in Beatty

Tuesday March 23, 2021 Ubehebe and Sandstorm

 Well, this was a very odd day weatherwise, but we were not deterred. The feature of the day was a howling wind, all day long. It was partly cloudy with cool temperatures ranging from 58 to 72. Not what one expects in Death Valley!

Our plan for the day was to drive up to the northern end of the park and visit Ubehebe Crater and anything of interest in between. Our first stop was the Keane Wonder Mine, an abandoned gold mine from the early 1900s. Interesting short hike we had never done before.

Next stop was the Salt Creek Spring where, if there's water, you can see the famous Pup Fish. Actually, there was quite a bit of water in there so we walked the entire length of the boardwalk and saw the Pup Fish.

Continuing north, we stopped at Mesquite Springs campground for lunch in the car - too windy to be outside!

Here is the road that goes up to Scotty's Castle. About five years ago there was a flash flood which did major damage to the property causing its closure. The park service is still working on repairs but, of course, has been delayed by Covid. They say another year before it reopens.

About five miles further up the road, up to about 2500', we arrived at Ubehebe Crater. We had been here some years ago and hiked the rim trail. My intention was to hike the 1.5 mile trail while Sam stayed in the car with a Smithsonian magazine. I bundled up as best I could and set off up the hill. The wind was howling and it wasn't more than 60 degrees! I got up as far as Little Hebe Crater and decided I'd best return, rather than continue. It was freezing cold and the wind was dangerously strong!

We headed back to Stovepipe Wells hoping to have an early dinner at the Bad Water Saloon. This is the sand dune area so sand was blowing everywhere, real white -out conditions! Turns out the saloon was shut down by Covid, like everything else, and only offered take-out. So we ordered Cheeseburgers and fries and ate in the car - for the second time today! Actually, that meal was outstanding!

We arrived back at the Ranch around 6:00 but it was too cool and windy to do anything outdoors, so we camped out in front of the TV. Hopefully, tomorrow's weather will be more to our liking! 

Keane Wonder Mine

Salt Spring

Pup fish

Ubehebe Crater

Dunes at Stove Pipe Wells

Wednesday March 24, 2021 Zabriskie and Date Ranch

 The weather is MUCH better today! Bright sun, little wind and temperatures would range from mid 60s to low 70s, depending on elevation. Still cool for Death Valley. (Its odd that we haven't made use of the pool - buts its been too cold!)

First thing this morning, while Sam hung around the hotel, I went off to hike my favorite trail - Zabriskie Point. Its about 3.5 miles to go all the way down to Golden Canyon, where you either have to be picked up, or hike all the way back! So I hiked up to the top, to get the fantastic views, then come back down. Its about 1.25 hours, about 2 miles. Lots of people on the trail! Very special! There are other sections of this loop that I have not done - next time!

After a leisurely breakfast we headed south on the park road, stopping for the gorgeous views at Artist's Drive and Artist's Palette. We drove past Bad Water (282 ft below sea level); too crowded to park! 

We left the park at its southern boundary, crossing over the Black Mountains, and into the burg of Shoshone (pop 31). We would return later for dinner at the Crowbar. We continued down to the China Date Ranch, in Tacopa Hot Springs, one of the coolest places in these parts! Its literally an oasis out in the barren dessert where a long time date growing operation is in full swing. The "real" reason for coming down here, however, is to get a "Date Shake" and browse the very eclectic souvenir/whatever shop. 

On this visit we discovered the Amargosa Wild and Scenic River designation, which included a 3 mile loop trail. We hiked a little it of it, a very enjoyable walk. It seems odd to have a Wild and Scenic river when there's no water! We never knew China Ranch was a hiking destination.

Returning to Shoshone we stopped for early dinner at the Crowbar Bar and Grill. We had driven past this place on previous trips and there always seemed to be a lot of cars parked out front! I had read a Facebook post indicating that their French fries were world famous! We had quesadilla and French Fries which were awesome!

We got back to the hotel around 6:30 to relax after a busy and successful day!

This is a "Phainopepla"....really

Thursday March 25, 2021 Emigrant Canyon and Dante's View

Our morning adventure would be a drive up Emigrant Canyon Road to Wildrose. The road heads into the mountains about 10 miles west of Stovepipe Wells on the road to Panamint Springs. Its the only road left in the park that we had never explored. We cross Emigrant Pass at about 5300' and then drop down into Wildrose campground, where we turned around and headed back. The road would continue for another six miles, on gravel, to some historic charcoal kilns but we were  getting low on gas so I didn't want to risk it. Fortunately, it was all down hill back to Stovepipe at sea level.

The weather is great today! It would get up to 78 by late afternoon in the valley. After our cooler-made lunch back at our room, we headed out for Dante's View, a great spot at 5500'. On the way up we took a little detour loop called Twenty Mule Team Canyon with the same features one sees at Zabriskie Point.  

The Park Service had rebuilt the viewing and parking area in 2018. There's a fun little hike here, too, that goes along the ridge. It was only 58 degrees but sunny with NO wind!

We returned to the hotel for a swim - it was finally warm enough!  We had a very fine dinner at the One Last Chance Saloon - split a pesto pasta and caesar salad. But be warned - the prices are outrageous. And there's something about eating a fine meal out of a to go box! Covid protocols have really limited food options here.

We'll head home tomorrow.

Twenty Mule Team Canyon drive

Dante's View